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But I had been pleasantly amazed to uncover locals and backpack-toting tourists among the combine—just one afternoon, I squeezed on to a communal picnic table beside a German family, where most of us savored smoked trout and generous pours of grüner veltliner. Doubles from $650. —Siobhan ReidInvolving Avramovo and the earlier end at Sveta Petk